Warning: This 80km bicycle ride is not an adventure for the faint of heart.
The Devil’s Staircase, hidden deep in the mountains between Ohiya and Kalupahana, is a trail filled with hairpin bends, rocky roads and challenging descents that you can ride down at break-neck speeds.
Previously we have driven a 4×4 vehicle on this unforgiving 16km hill climb of 1,200m through unpopulated areas, waterfalls, streams, broken bridges, abandoned tea estates and factories. To be daring and adventurous, we decided to do the Devil’s Staircase trail on our bicycles. Of course, we were a little nervous.
Read: The devil’s Staircase: a trail on the Kalupahana – Ohiya road
It’s an adventure not many would dare to risk but sometimes motorcyclists can be found in groups riding through the Devil’s Staircase
Transporting bicycles from Colombo to Haputale
The five-hour journey to Haputale can be done by taking a bus or train or self-driving. Although transporting bicycles in the train might seem the most practical way, there is a bureaucratic problem. To transport a bicycle on a train you need to have a bicycle licence issued by a town council office.
This is a tedious process as the applicant for a licence needs to be a resident in the area of the town council. This means that a non-resident, like someone on holiday, with a bike, can’t take it on a train. We opted to travel by a luxury bus ( Bus Number 99 Colombo-Badulla) which stops at Haputale.
Long-distance express luxury buses start from Fort central bus station. To avoid disappointment during the weekend, it is advisable to pre-book your seat. A number of websites offer this service including ‘superline.lk’ while some telecommunication service providers also provide this option.
Read: Transportation in Sri Lanka: Tuk-Tuks, Cars, Mini Car Taxi
We loaded our bikes onto a hired PickMe mini lorry (An UBER/GRAB alternative in Sri Lanka) truck that took us to the Fort bus station. There, at 10 pm, we boarded a No99 bus with our cycles stored at the bottom of its luggage compartment. The fare was Rs1000 ($5) per person and bicycle for the journey.
Reaching Haputale at 3 am
Haputale belongs to the Badulla district, the centre part of Sri Lanka. A hill station, it is 1431 metres above sea level with a cool temperature throughout the year. As we got off the luxury bus with our bicycles at 3 am the sheer cold was torture and was particularly painful to the ears.
Our hotel was a 2km ride uphill towards the Temple road from Haputale town centre. The same route where we had to continue the journey the next day.
Accommodation at Haputale
Haputale is a fantastic location that gives travellers many options to stay for all kinds of budgets. Our hotel was a budget hotel with a good en-suite clean bathroom, warm sheets and comfortable mattress.
We set our phone alarms for 6:30 am as we tucked in our warm blanket to get some sleep.
The Adventure
Breakfast was at a roadside shop which served Sri Lanka plain tea and coconut Rottie with a spicy home-made chilli paste.
The 24.5Km downhill ride on a tarred road up to the Ohiya train station was easy and required no effort. However, there are several blind bends so we had to be careful of oncoming vehicles.
From the Ohiya Railway station, it was going to be a difficult ascent so we took a short break.
Throughout our journey, there were several settlements for plantation workers. Every now and then we came across small shops. This helped us to travel light with water and buying snacks on the way.
Horton Plains
Devil’s Staircase borders the Horton Plains that was designated a national park in the central highlands of Sri Lanka in 1988. It is located at an elevation of 2,100–2,300m and encompasses montane grassland and cloud forest. It is rich in biodiversity and many species found there are endemic to the region.
Read: Discovering Horton Plains
Cycling through the Devil’s Staircase
Ascending towards the abandoned Udaweriya Estate and a tea factory, the Weli Oya river, the scenery was simply blissful. There are several breath-taking viewpoints where we just stopped and kept gazing, losing track of time.
This bicycle ride was filled with such stunning scenery, it was simply therapeutic and totally serene. This is a clear example of the wonders of nature and what it can do to your mind. Calming and peaceful.
With lush greenery on either side of the trail, we found cycling through the mountains, passing streams and waterfalls is a serene experience. Gazing at these breathtakingly stunning mountains covered in mist, and the surrounding scenery is simply mind-blowing. The best way to enjoy this trek is to take time to appreciate the surrounding beauty. So it’s important to start early.
Cycling through the abandoned estates and villages, we found the path was extremely tough. It was a rocky road with sharp edges where a simple miscue on the bicycle could mean a bad injury. We had to hold onto our brakes and slowly pussyfoot ourselves downwards.
We couldn’t focus on a perfect pedal stroke which resulted in the pedal hitting the ankle most of the time. My friend and I are not the fittest. Six hours into cycling and a brutal path drained our energy. We decided to push our bicycles and walk.
Having a cycle equipped for such journeys couldn’t have been more vital. We were able to realise that a bike could breakdown in such conditions and could have landed us in a world of trouble. So if your bike breaks down, be sure you know how to fix it because there is little help around.
My mountain bike had front and back shocks with off-road bicycle tyres which helped me in the rocky conditions. Even though it felt bulky on the well-tarred road it performed what it was built for on the trail. On the other hand, my friend had a road bicycle with off-road tyres. A perfect bicycle for the road, but only an experienced cycler could take it on a tough trail.
We started at 6 am and when we reached the Kalupahana area, the Bambarakanda waterfall, it was closer to 6.30 pm and was getting dark.
However, we were prepared and equipped with head torches and lights for the bicycles with enough backup powerful lights
Once we got past the rocky road, the rest was just a cruise.
The descent was equally enjoyable. There is nothing like being able to just sit and manoeuvre your cycle through a trail after a gruelling uphill journey.
Feeling the chill evening breeze hitting against your face while you cruise through the hills is a different kind of pleasure.
“When your mind is telling you that you’re done, that you’re exhausted, that you cannot possibly go any further, you’re only actually 40% done” –
David Goggins (Retd. US Navy Seal and Endurance Athlete).
That’s a quote I remembered when I felt like giving up this brutal, bold adventure: The Devil’s Staircase bicycle ride.
My Friend and I could feel the pain in our bodies, but we realised that we had just completed one of our best adventures in Sri Lanka. We downed a few celebratory shots and slowly eased into sleep knowing that this journey would be fresh in our memories for a long, long time.
“A life worth living is to travel and experience nature’s beauty. A life worth living is to ‘Travel… just travel…”
Sri Lanka Holiday Guru Tip
This is not for the faint of heart.
Bicycle in groups or with at least one companion. Not recommended for a solo ride.
Riders who do not wish to pause and spend a lot of time taking in the scenery could complete the trek in much less time.
There is no help in the area. Carry enough backup gear.
Be cautious on the sharp bends and bumpy rocks.
Carrying a medical kit is advisable.
Be prepared for dramatic weather changes. A raincoat would be useful.
There is unlikely to be a signal for mobile phones and GPS along most of the trek.
Greet people you meet on the way with a smile but avoid lengthy conversations or giving gifts. Of course, ask for directions if you get lost.
Take a very good rest if you’re tired or feel dizzy.
You can easily get lost, so plan the paths well. Take a physical map or print outs.
Avoid climbing wet rocks and pine forests.
