Sri Lanka Holiday Guru, Andrew Jebaraj, takes a boat trip to watch whales – the trending sea safari adventure that’s fun, even if the whales, not being on the tourist authority’s payroll, don’t spout and leap on demand.
Whale watching in Sri Lanka
Popular holiday destinations such as Bentota and Hikkaduwa are also known for the sighting of whales far offshore. There are 80 species of whales that have been identified in all oceans, while 26 of them have been observed in and around the seas off the west and south coasts of Sri Lanka. The trend-setting destination for whale watching is Mirissa from November to April.
Trincomalee, the best time is from May to September as whales continue their migrations around the island from the south coast. Out of these months December, January and April are the peak months for sightings.
Mirissa, southern Sri Lanka
Mirissa is approximately 150 kilometres south of Colombo and is situated at an elevation of four metres above sea level. You can take the train from Colombo Fort to Weligama via Galle and then a bus to Mirissa. The area has beautiful beaches, surf waves, whale watching and lots of beach bars and cafés.
Mirissa has developed quickly over the last few years and is thus getting more crowded and commercial. However, there are still enough spots where you can enjoy fresh king coconut water while lazing in a hammock and watching the sunset.
Big Game Camps can arrange a whale watching expedition while you’re at Mirissa or on the way back from the Yala National Park. All you have to do is let them know in advance. Avoid the local recommendations and follow online reviews and guidebooks for a better experience. And don’t yield to the hustlers’ hype!
Into the seas of Mirissa
For us, the whale watching experience was organised by Surf Yoga Mirissa, which offers Yoga facilities and lessons, rooms and surfing lessons by Priyal a top qualified surfer. Along with Whale Paradise Cruise, a two-deck boat. The best time to set off is at 6 am with the sunrise at the Mirissa Harbour, a 15-minute drive from the Mirissa Town. Usually, the trips are pre-booked and boats carry a limited number of passengers.
While the passengers were greeted with Sri Lankan tea or coffee made on board, the captain explained the safety procedures, dos and don’ts during the sail. One of the two specific instructions was not to stand on the upper and lower decks and to wear the provided life jacket until the end of the trip.
If you’re not too sure where to get the best view, you can either sit right in front on the upper deck on a cushion or stand down in the deck. But remember both come with a cost!
The cruise is not entirely pleasant as salty sea water sprays and splashes passengers and the burning sun can be very uncomfortable.
The boat motored 20 km out to sea to reach the area where whales swim and it took approximately three hours to get there. It’s not possible to predict the exact location of the whales so part of the fun is watching out for them. While at sea breakfast and water bottles are provided.
A short while later, we encountered plenty of dolphins. Selfie sticks wove through the smallest of gaps on the upper deck.
By the time, the whales showed up the tension in the boat was high. Does the space by rail belong to me because I was sitting next to it? What if the Whales appear from the other side? will I be able to click a picture? These would have been some thoughts entering the passengers’ minds. However, the boat crew managed to calm the passengers and politely reminding them of the house rules. Not only that, to play fair the boat crew gave everyone a different position at various sightings.
There’s a lookout crew member on the boat who, when he spots a whale, instructs the captain to steer towards it. The boats don’t get too close to the whales as it’s considered dangerous and the boat operators follow International guidelines for approaching the mammals. If you’re looking at capturing photos do carry one of those DSLR’s long-distance lenses. But do protect the electronics from the salty water splashes and air.
For several years, Sri Lanka has been able to boast being the world’s top location to spot Blue Whales, as well as Sperm Whales as they travel the long distance past the island to warmer feeding grounds in the Bay of Bengal, according to the guide on board. He explained that it is estimated that only about 15,000 Blue Whales exist in the world today. Huge numbers of these cetaceans have been killed in this Century for food and for oil. Blue Whales are the largest animals ever to have graced this planet and can reach in excess of 35 metres (100 feet) in length.
After two hours cruising around the area and 24Km into the sea looking for whales and dolphins, the boat returns to the harbour. On the way back we were served plenty of slices of pineapples and watermelon. When a pair of turtles was spotted, passengers rushed to starboard in for a chance to see them.
The Six-hour cruise ended around a little past noon. Our good English speaking guide and boat crew were very friendly and happy to help passengers capturing photographs and even if they were feeling seasick. We were told that the Sri Lanka Coast Guard and the Wild Life department regulate the distance to be maintained, methods of approach, the boat speed and the maximum number of boats that can go at once.
The cost
There’s a Government mandated charge of Rs.9,000 per person, with a discount for Sri Lankans.
Sri Lanka Holiday Guru Tips
A whale watching cruise can be fun if you have the right mindset. The sight of a whale cannot be guaranteed, so if you embark on a six-hour jaunt at sea without any expectations, you won’t be disappointed. Remember, though, that the sea could get rough, especially when it rains and you could get sea sick so take anti-seasickness pills. We recommended avoiding a heavy meal before the boat ride.
Burning sun and salt water
You may get splashed by the sea. Also since the boats are open, direct sun and heat will creep in. Take enough wet wipes, a cap and sunglasses.
The boat
Even though the boat may have comfortable seats, it tends to shake and one could experience rough seas and high winds.
Toilets.
The bigger boats have a small toilet. Carry your own tissues.
Feeling sick.
It’s normal to feel sick and there’s nothing to worry about. If you do feel sick inform the boat crew. Find a shadier place, relax. The crew are very helpful and understanding.
No Show
Yes, it’s possible that you won’t see any blue whales. Dolphins for sure. But you’ll have fun anyway during this short boat cruise off the southern coast of Sri Lanka.
